Thursday, February 17, 2011

Banh Mi Battel-Boston MA#1







What: Braised Shortrib and Asian Pear Banh Mi 
Where: Myers + Chang
1145 Washington Street
Boston MA 02118
How much: $9.00 
Time of visit: a Tuesday about 12:30PM

Banh Mi. Finally I venture into Boston proper to see what the city has to offer. I've been to Dorchester and Allston. Can the bar be raised?

(readers, cue The Jam - In The City) (clicking on link should open YouTube in a new browser tab so you can hear my selected audio track playing, but you will have to click back on this tab to return)

This day's travels took me into Boston proper. I've been around the South End of Boston often for work and less for pleasure. I was on my way to the Boston Food Bloggers Meetup at The Gallows back in January when I walked past Myers + Chang. I looked inside on that icy cold night and it looked great! Warm and inviting with a bit of Asian flair, I knew I had to check it out. I went inside and grabbed a takeout menu and saw that in addition to the gluten -free menu (wanna go Bakin' and Edzo?), they had Banh Mi. It seemed a bit, well upscale. Or maybe interpreted a bit beyond genuine article.

Their options:
◘Grilled Homemade 5 Spice Tofu
◘Crispy Pork Belly
◘Soy-Braised "Nirvana" Chicken
◘Panko-crusted Chicken Breast
◘Braised Shortrib and Asian Pear

All are dressed with carrot-daikon slaw and sriracha aioli and served with shrimp chips and Asian slaw.

So I was back in the area. I was hungry. It was close to lunch time. I didn't want to walk to Chinatown and didn't feel like driving to Dorchester. The time was now to try it. I had just had Banh Mi the day before in Providence at Pho Paradise. Why not two days in a row? 

Banh Mi University graduate? Oh yes! Summa Cum Laude. The valedictorian who did an independent study at some crazy liberal arts school! No white deli wrap and elastic as one would expect. It was wrapped up in foil like my favorite Burnt End Burrito at Blue Ribbon BBQ. The bread was excellent. Joanne Chang is chef/owner here as well as Flour Bakery. The crust was eggshell thin and flaky. The inside was light and airy with that slightly chewy texture. Overall loaf size was similar to others I have had recently. It was not served on a individual loaf as most are, it was a regular baguette loaf cut to size, so I didn't get heels on both ends (as my family knows, the heel is the best part). The bread is usually the make or break feature for me. The bread was definitely awesome, but did not dominate the sandwich in terms of taste, texture or size.  It formed a perfect backround for all of the other ingredients to stand out, when it usually dominates, like David Bowie singing backup vocals. I chose the shortrib to keep to the beef factor as a control in all my Banh Mi reviews, if possible. I was rewarded. The braised shortrib was shredded and was generous in quantity. It was very tender with a super beefy/smoky taste and moist. The cilantro was very fresh with no dark spots, but were leaves only (yeah, I like the stems). The carrots, mixed equally with daikon, generous, tasty, slightly pickled and yet still a bit crisp. The cucumber's place was filled in by Asian pear (in photo of opened Banh Mi, you can see the yellow skin peaking out from under the meat in the upper right corner).  It offered the textural component of the cuke, but added an exceptional sweet undertone to the smoky beef favor. Genius!  Scallions were not present. I'm not sure about the soy/fish sauce. The meat was dripping, so I don't know that it was added on the Banh Mi, but most likely was in the sauce that the shortribs were marinated/cooked with. The smear of sraracha aioli was very generous and added a nice spicy edge. It was strange when I opened up the foil because it looked like cheese oozing out. I did not ask for spicy as the menu said it was spicy. Jalapenos were on the sandwich, but were pickled like the carrots and daikon. The vinegar did tie the veggies together, but I'd like to try it with fresh. The first bite had good heat and continued at a decent level for the rest of the Banh Mi. The afterburn put a smile on my face for a while after I was done.
All in all, you could look at it like a pulled BBQ beef sandwich with cole slaw Asian style.  Banh Mi with borders on the Mason-Dixon Line and the 17th Parallel.
In addition to the Banh Mi, for my $9.00 I got Asian slaw and shrimp chips. The slaw portion was small, but very fresh, and with the carrots and daikon on the Banh Mi, just the something when you needed a bit of crunch in between bites of the sandwich. I did not get a fork or spoon in the bag however. The lunch also came with shrimp chips (the mysterious  sixth photo above). Five chips came in a nice little cellophane bag, were totally crisp, covered in some sort of hot pepper dust and looked made on premises. Up close, they looked like some sort of frozen foam. If I could get these easily, they would be my new favorite snack food.

But the Banh Mi was not the whole story here. Other details are worth knowing. Service was very fast for a sit down restaurant. The hostess/waitress was very friendly, despite a room full of sit down patrons. The bartender asked if I wanted a glass of water while I was waiting. The take out bag was more attractive and heavier duty than most. The hostess took the time to write "Thanks!" on the bag just before she gave it to me. Backround music was good and not too loud. These people care.

Parking is very tough in the South End, especially with all the snow that was still there on this visit. I parked  over on Tremont and walked over. Be patient and something will open up during the day.

At $9.00, it was a whole meal, not just a sandwich. One of the best I have tasted, even thought it was out of the Banh Mi box.

I'd give the Myers + Chang Banh Mi a 6.0B/6. Outstanding in execution. This is the first 6 I've given for Banh Mi. I kind of hesitate because it is so nontraditional, but excellence is excellence.

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Myers & Chang on Urbanspoon

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Sounds awesome! Love to give it a try! Edzo

Anonymous said...

Wow... I might just have to give it a try too!!! J-Mar